Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

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Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby halo 3000 » Sun Sep 09, 2012 7:50 pm

Hey guys. Some of you knew it was only a matter of time before I started playing 40k. After thinking long and hard(lol) about what race I wanted to play as, I finally decided upon Space Marines! Not really. I knew I either wanted to play Space Marines or Space Wolves. The latter seemed harder to paint so I chose Space Marines.

No pictures yet, but I have a Tactical marine squad and a dreadnought on the way. They should get here on Wednesday or Thursday.

I decided to make my own chapter too. I'm calling them the Grey Ravens.

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This is what a standard marine is going to look like

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This is what a sergeant is going to look like. I probably wont give him the helmet though.

Could you guys give me some tips on painting? I've never painted before. I need to know things like;

What brushes to buy.

What are some good citadel equivalent paints.

painting techniques for beginners (Nitewatchmen told me about ink washes so I'm defiantly doing that)

Help me out!
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Silent-sigfig » Sun Sep 09, 2012 8:37 pm

Purple is cooler.

Ut I like the colors regardless. Maybe throw in purple highlights?
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Robot Monkey » Sun Sep 09, 2012 8:56 pm

I'd suggest buying a cheap set of brushes first. Also, Don't just buy one shade of each color, get a base shade, a darker shade, and a lighter shade for highlighting. Also, I'd suggest getting a black wash to start with, that could be helpful with armor.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Zupponn » Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:34 pm

From what I've learned:
6. Prime, Paint, Gloss.
7. Mix colors in a palette.
8. Don't worry too much about mistakes, you can paint over them.
9. Have water for rinsing your brush(es), newspaper to protect the surface you're painting on, and paper towel to dry your brush(es) after rinsing.
10. It's easier to have a few different sizes of brushes for those hard-to-reach spots, but you can make do with only 1. I did :D
11. Having different shades like RM said is nice, but you can make do by mixing colors.
12. If you're not liking the colors that you're using then change them. Nothing will get accomplished if you hate your colors.
13. Have fun! This is probably the most important thing. Like in Brikwars, if you're not having fun, then don't do it.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Quantumsurfer » Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:42 am

Believe it or not...Apple Barrel and Folk Art. They're home craft water based acrylics and, for beginners through intermediates, they're just as good as 90% of citadel paints. You might want to splurge some for metals like Boltgun. Yellows and Whites are also a little better with the higher end paints. Still, the Apple Barrels mix beautifully with one another and a decent boltgun can be obtained by spashing a dot of black in with some folk art silver. You'll find other good combinations if you experiment some. My own marines are painted with boltgun and a pretty bronze I mixed together with folk art gold and apple barrel maroon. Best thing about them is their cost. 2 oz bottles for .88 cents at Wal-Mart or whereever as opposed to the 3.70 for .62 oz citadels. Once you learn more advanced technques, you'll want to switch completely over. If you're dead set on higher end paints to start, Reaper has a master series that's really nice. People rave about Vallejo paints. And Privateer Press makes a nice series called Formula P3.

Also, the other suggestions are golden. I might suggest a matte finish, though, unless you want really shiny minis.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby halo 3000 » Mon Sep 10, 2012 2:25 pm

Ok, so I had about 3 hours between classes today, so I drove to the nearest walmart and got these;

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I played around a little with the paint and it was kinda thick, so I added some water. I must have added too much, because it was really runny after that.

Quantumsurfer wrote: Lots of helpful stuff.


Thanks! you answered the majority of the questions I had, but didn't know how to say. I got the apple barrel and folk art paint. I made some Boltgun metal too. when you said a dot you weren't kidding...

what do you do in terms of thinning your paint?

Zupponn wrote:Lots of helpful stuff.


What do you use to prime? would the spray can I have back there work?

Robot Monkey wrote:Lots of helpful stuff.


I got some cheap brushes. I found a brush set at walmart with a fine detail brush so I got that one. I also got a bunch of different colors like you said. I watched a few videos on shading too.

Silent-sigfig wrote:Purple is cooler.


Eh. the only place I think it would look cool would be the eyes and purity seals, but I think green is better suited for that job.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Zupponn » Mon Sep 10, 2012 4:24 pm

halo 3000 wrote:
Zupponn wrote:Lots of helpful stuff.


What do you use to prime? would the spray can I have back there work?

Well, my dad had some BEHR paint and primer laying around that he got as a free sample somewhere, so I used that. I guess it's been sitting in our garage for about a year now. I'm not sure if the primer is too important as long as the paint sticks to it. Spray cans are quicker, but kind of messy, so I'm going to try to stay away from them myself.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Quantumsurfer » Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:22 pm

halo 3000 wrote:Thanks! you answered the majority of the questions I had, but didn't know how to say. I got the apple barrel and folk art paint. I made some Boltgun metal too. when you said a dot you weren't kidding...


No problem. Yeah, a little goes a really long way when mixing.

halo 3000 wrote:what do you do in terms of thinning your paint?


Hm. I usually don't have to. You might try (and bear with me here because this might be a little hard to explain):

First, shake really well.

As Zupponn suggested, use a palette (The Wal sells those round ones with the small cups, the flat ones are alright and easier to clean but are kind of a pain for mixing). Measure your paints (the apple barrel ones with the flip tops) in drops, maybe get about the size of the tip of a finger (you'll have to experiment with it to determine how much you need vs. how much you'll be painting at a time). Then take a bit of paper towel and dip it in some water until it saturates. Slowly wring the water out into the paint, mixing as you go with either an old brush or one you don't care about. If you've an eyedropper, that'd be easier. If that doesn't really work for you, try a "wet palette" instead. You can find instructions to make them on YouTube (they're pretty easy).

Also, try sort of (oh, how do I say this) gently scraping the edge of the brush against the rim of the palette or something to remove excess paint. You don't need much actually on the brush. I'm sure once you've painted a few minis, you'll have a good idea about how much you need.

halo 3000 wrote:What do you use to prime? would the spray can I have back there work?


I've used that exact spray many times. Now, the problem with it is that it isn't exactly the highest quality paint so sometimes it doesn't come out real smooth and you get burrs. You can mitigate that somewhat with vigorous shaking, but not always. Make sure when you use it that you sort of dust the minis in sweeping passes. It can go on thick and destroy small details. I've found its easiest to do 5 or 10 guys at a time (make sure you tape or sticky them down; the plastic is really light and will blow away).

Also, keep in mind that your undercoat will affect your top colors. That is, a black undercoat will make colors appear darker. Lighter colors (like yellow or white) over a black undercoat will require multiple coats (2-3, usually). Be sure when you do them that you wait for them to completely dry before applying another coat. Same is true in reverse, of course. A white undercoat will highlight colors. I took to gray for a long time, thinking to split the difference, but that's not always appropriate for some models. Your color scheme looks like it would be easiest to do black as an undercoat (because so much of the model will be black...or is that a charcoal gray?) That little nook behind their neck is a real pain if the marine is already glued together.

It takes longer, but another option is to "primer" them using the acrylic paint and a somewhat larger brush. I bought a big thing (8oz) of the white and black for this purpose a while ago. Another good thing about those paints is that they last a long time. The citadel paints often dry out quickly (that might have changed somewhat since they released their new line a couple of months ago, though).

Finally, consider higher quality paints if you want to bulk paint in white (like primer or whatever). The new citadel white acrylic is gorgeous (I tried it out at a GW store a few months back...coverage is great, paint is smooth). The white wal-mart spray is worse than the black but can still work if you do a good job painting over it.

Sorry so long but I hope it helps. I look forward to seeing your Grey Ravens.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Ham701 » Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:03 pm

Well, at least it's not RM's lame ass colour scheme.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Robot Monkey » Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:05 pm

Ham701 wrote:Hurr Hurr people need to use moar pink hurr hurr bronies ftw


Fix'd.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Ham701 » Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:08 pm

Robot Monkey wrote:
Ham701 wrote:Hurr Hurr people need to use moar pink hurr hurr bronies ftw


Fix'd.



I would have suggested a purple and gold colour scheme, that would be bad ass and would imply these marines are some Imperial mofos.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Zupponn » Tue Sep 11, 2012 12:48 am

I would have suggested Yellow and Red.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Keldoclock » Tue Sep 11, 2012 3:13 am

^ you mean yellow and rad!

Halo3000, why didn't you go with Space Wolves? Space Wolves kick ass! And they aren't too difficult to paint either-

http://space-wolves-grey.blogspot.com/2 ... olves.html


Also if you are interested in actually wining games right now SW have one of the strongest codex'es.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Quantumsurfer » Tue Sep 11, 2012 3:34 am

When I found out about them, I was this close to converting all my marines into Angry Marines. It was about that time that Warmachine had their full metal manliness campaign going and we were all making jokes about the best way to win a game being to pick up your full metal warjack and chuck it at your opponent's head.

Keldoclock wrote:Also if you are interested in actually wining games right now SW have one of the strongest codex'es.


This is true. And they're cooler than the Space Vampires.
Depends on how much you like story, I guess. I stuck with my own chapter for that reason. Something about being able to call it my own. Of course, 6th edition blurs the lines a little anyway, which I like. You can paint Marneus Calgar yellow and call him the chapter master of the Imperial Fists. It takes away from some of the "uniqueness" of individual chapters but removes a lot of that old GW elitism. When the creators of the game encourage you to play what you want, you know.
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Re: Halo 3000's WH40K Paintlog

Postby Keldoclock » Tue Sep 11, 2012 3:36 am

Quantumsurfer wrote: When the creators of the game encourage you to play what you want, you know.


But only using their models Image

Why do we not already have a fist-shaking emoticon? We should.
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