The Skully Grail
Players are of course free to invent all kinds of unique minifig items in addition to the generic weapon types. Who knows what mysterious powers this Skully Grail might possess?
Chapter Three: Minifig Weapons
Yo dog, roll 1d6 to roll 1d6
With the unique and logic-defying ability to weild an unlimited number of minifig weapons simultaneously, the semi-mythical hero Zahru Trollarm brought the human minifigs of Medivo back from the brink of extinction in ancient times, slaying his way through hordes of Dungans, trolls, and the undead forces of the evil spirit Warhead.
Wiki entry: Zahru Trollarm

The weapons with which you arm your minifigs are best chosen according to which look the coolest. More practical considerations might increase your army’s chances of victory, but that's hardly a priority compared to the importance of looking awesome.

Minifig Weapons
Weapon Cost Use Range Damage Notes
Close Combat Weapons
Hand Weapon (S) 2CP 2 CC 1d6  
Heavy Weapon (M) 3CP 3 CC 1d6+2 may be paired with Shield or Heavy Shield
1" KnockBack to minifigs (no Disruption)
Two-Handed Weapon (L) 4CP 4 CC 2d6 Two-Handed; -1" Move; can't Sprint; can't throw
1" KnockBack to minifigs
Ranged Weapons
Short-Ranged Weapon (S) 3CP 3 6" 1d6 some are Two-Handed
Long-Ranged Weapon (M) 5CP 3 10" 1d6+1 Two-Handed
Explosive 1CP 1* 3"* 1d10 Exp affects all targets within 2"
1" KnockBack
* Range if thrown
Bodily Protection
Shield (S) 1CP 2 CC Shielded Parry Parry or Shove only; can Parry Charge attacks
Heavy Shield (M) 1CP 3 CC Shielded Parry same as Shield, can provide cover
Body Armor 1CP - - Armor +2 Move -1", can't swim
Heavy Armor 2CP - - Shielded Half Speed
Desperate Measures
Bare Hands - 0* CC Shove 2" or Grab * Automatic Hit for Shoves and Grabs
Minifig Tool 1CP 3 CC 1d6-1  
Random Object - 4 CC 1d6-2  
Thrown Object * * 3" * * use object's Close Combat stats

Less well-equipped minifigs will try to tell you that it's not the size that matters, it's how well you use it. This is of course completely false. Minifig weapons, like everything else of importance, are categorized entirely according to length. They fall into three categories, separated by how they compare to a minifig's height: weapons shorter than a minifig are Short (S), weapons equal in length to the height of a minifig are Minifig-Size (M), and weapons longer than a minifig are Long (L).

Players might be tempted to think of the letters as standing for Small, Medium, and Large, but that would be much less precise.



3.1: Close Combat Weapons
Killing enemies from a safe distance is all well and good, but any minifig worth his plastic will tell you that's for cowards. Nothing beats the meaty hands-on thrill of manually whacking an uncooperative enemy into a pile of bloody chunks. Close Combat weapons are used to make Close Combat attacks, as you might suspect (5.2: Close Combat).


Hand Weapons
The majority of Hand Weapons are about one Brik shorter than a regular minifig; exactly the height of this dwarven warrior.
Weapons shown: Red Bean Studios, Mega Bloks, LEGO, Little Armory
Hand Weapons
Size:(S) Cost:2CP Use:2 Range:CC Damage:1d6
Hand Weapons are the lightest, most versatile, and most readily available melee weapons: anything from maces, hand axes, and shortswords to baseball bats, bicycle chains, and crowbars.

Because Hand Weapons are so light and easy to handle, they leave the second hand entirely free for a second weapon or equipment item. Hand Weapons can be paired with another Hand Weapon, Short-Ranged Weapon, Shield, Heavy Shield, or Minifig Tool.



Heavy Weapons
Heavy Weapons are the height of a minifig. They are most often paired with a Shield, as this Hoplite demonstrates.
Weapons shown: Red Bean Studios, LEGO, Little Armory, Mega Bloks
Heavy Weapons
Size:(M) Cost:3CP Use:3 Range:CC Damage:1d6+2 Notes: May be paired with Shield
Heavier than regular Hand Weapons, but not requiring the dedicated use of both hands, Heavy Weapons are sometimes called Hand-And-A-Half or Bastard weapons. Heavy Weapons include such weapons as broadswords, battleaxes, flails, spears, katanas, chainsaws, and beamsabers.

Heavy Weapons do not include Lightsabers, because the Lightsaber is a trademark of Lucasfilm Ltd., and we would never want to risk infringing a trademark.

Minifigs wielding a Heavy Weapon cannot carry a second weapon of any type in their off hand, although they may equip a Shield or Heavy Shield.

Any minifig who takes Damage from a hit with a Heavy Weapon is pushed one inch directly away from the attacker, regardless of whether the Damage kills him, as if he were experiencing KnockBack from an Explosion (3.2: Ranged Weapons). Unlike most forms of KnockBack, KnockBack from a Heavy Weapon does not cause a minifig to be Disrupted - they are pushed backwards but manage to stay on their feet.


Two-Handed Weapons
Even with added height of the most ostentatious helmet plumes, this Centurionette is dwarfed by her massive Two-Handed Sword.
Weapons shown: custom mold, Little Armory, LEGO
Two-Handed Weapons
Size:(L) Cost:4CP Use:4 Range:CC Damage:2d6 Notes: Two-Handed, -1" to Move, cannot Sprint, cannot throw
Two-Handed Weapons give heavy troops the power to destroy the sturdiest armored foe, and the ability to hit at targets normally out of reach - striking behind a rank of other minifigs, surprising targets on separate building levels, or nailing riders on horseback.

The drawbacks are that Two-Handed Weapons are heavy, slow, and difficult to weild effectively. Minifigs carrying a Two-Handed Weapon have their Move ability reduced by one inch and are unable to Sprint. They have a hard time navigating tight spaces, and they need both hands free to use the weapon in melee. (You don't have to pose your minifig with both hands physically holding the weapon shaft, as that isn't always possible or easy to manage; it's understood that both hands come together to swing the weapon at the moment of attack, so quickly that the eyesight of Humans is unable to detect it.)

Even worse, a Two-Handed Weapon's extra inches of reach carry their own vulnerability - an enemy minifig can sneak up closer than the weapon's minimum effective range. A minifig swinging a Two-Handed Weapon must have one hand on the bottom-most grippable part of the handle; this may mean that he doesn't have enough space to bring the weapon's striking surface into contact with the target. If the minifig is unable to back up far enough to give himself room to swing, then the enemies inside that distance can only be Shoved, not attacked (5.2: Close Combat).

Unscrupulous players may try to get around problems of minimum striking distance by giving their Two-Handed Weapon a very long striking surface. This is considered to be in poor taste, and justified grounds for a mild to moderate beating. The amount of striking surface on a Two-Handed Weapon should never be longer than a minifig.

There is one important exception to the Two-Handed Weapon's two-hands requirement: Jousting, decribed in H.3: Fighting From Horseback. A minifig riding a steed or vehicle only needs one hand to use a Two-Handed Weapon as a lance in a Charge attack, as long as it has a pointy tip. Jousting minifigs can use their free hand to weild a Short-sized weapon, Shield, or equipment item.

Any minifig who takes Damage from a hit with a Two-Handed Weapon is pushed one inch directly away from the attacker and Disrupted, regardless of whether the Damage kills him, as if he were experiencing KnockBack from an Explosion.



3.2: Ranged Weapons
“You can go a long way with a smile. You can go a lot farther with a smile and a gun.”
- Al Capone

While it's hard to beat the joy of plunging a hand weapon into exposed enemy flesh (but not impossible: see the Explosives section below), it can be frustrating when some jokester thinks it's funny to keep bouncing around just out of reach of your hand axe. It's times like that that you want a nice ranged sidearm, to wipe that self-satisfied grin off his face in the most literal fashion (5.3: Ranged Combat).


Short-Ranged Weapons
Smaller Ranged Weapons give a minifig the power to strike at a distance while leaving his other hand free for life's more visceral pleasures - in the case of this Space Marine, a wickedly serrated gutting-knife.
Weapons shown: Red Bean Studios, Little Armory, LEGO, Best-Lock
Short-Ranged Weapons
Size:(S) Cost:3CP Use:3 Range:6" Damage:1d6 Notes:some are Two-Handed

“Remember the first rule of gunfighting: 'have a gun.'”
- Jeff Cooper

Most light ranged weapons fall under the Short-Ranged Weapons heading (also called "Pistols" for short): revolvers, shortbows, blowguns, magic wands, and slings are good examples. Many can be fired with one hand; a little common sense should be enough to determine how many hands a given weapon requires (a crossbow can be fired with one hand, for instance, while a shortbow takes two).

Because their short range puts minifigs dangerously close to an enemy's ability to counterattack, Short-Ranged Weapons are best paired with a Hand Weapon in the opposite hand, or used in hit-and-run harrying attacks that keep the Ranged attackers just out of enemies' reach. They can also be paired with Shields, Heavy Shields, or Minifig Tools.


Long-Ranged Weapons
Long-Ranged Weapons are for warriors who wish to focus exclusively on ranged attacks. This steel-bikinied commando doesn't care much for hand weapons; she's never met a problem her bazooka couldn't solve.
Weapons shown: Best-Lock, LEGO, Little Armory
Long-Ranged Weapons
Size:(M) Cost:5CP Use:3 Range:10" Damage:1d6+1 Notes:Two-Handed

“The deadliest weapon in the world is a Marine and his rifle!”
- John J. Pershing

Long-Range Weapons (or "Rifles") are higher-powered than regular Ranged Weapons, allowing minifigs to pack a solid punch while staying safely out of enemy units' melee range. Muskets, longbows, heavy crossbows, and a Magic Staff of Lightning Bolts are all Long-Range Weapons. Long-Range Weapons are generally about the length of a minifig, and always require two hands.


d8 and d10
Three inches isn't a whole lot of Range, especially when it comes to throwing dynamite and grenades. Minifigs who rely on thrown weapons will want to familiarize themselves with the rules for making attacks Out of Range (5.1: Making Attacks).
Elements shown: LEGO, Brickarms
Explosives
Size:- Cost:1CP Use:1* Range:3"* Damage:1d10 exp Notes:* - if thrown
Hand-held Explosives come in a variety of forms for a variety of purposes - grenades for throwing, rockets for firing, and timed charges for dropping somewhere and getting the hell away. A minifig's Explosive can do any of the above. If he throws it, it's a grenade; if he fires it from a launcher (launchers are bought as Short-Ranged or Long-Ranged Weapons), it's a rocket. If he drops it on the ground and says "I'm setting the fuse to go off on the end of my next turn," then it's a timed charge; if he attaches it to an enemy vending machine and says "I'm setting the fuse to go off when I hit the button on this transmitter (bought as a Minifig Tool (3.4: Desperate Measures))," then it's a remote detonator.

Once they go off, though, all Explosives work exactly the same way. The Explosive does 1d10 Explosion damage to every object and surface within a two-inch radius.

Objects within this radius are also subject to KnockBack. Loose objects within two inches of the Explosion, such as minifigs not wearing seatbelts, are pushed one inch directly away from the center of Explosion. Fixed objects, such as brick walls, are only Knocked Back if the Explosion breaks them into loose objects. Minifigs who are Knocked Back are Disrupted as if they had just Bailed (4.3: Enemy Response).

Each Explosive can only be used once, for obvious reasons. If you want three rockets for your bazooka, you need to purchase three Explosives.



3.3: Bodily Protection
Karma's a bitch
Lord Karetsu's armor awakens the demon curse haunting him since his crimes against Tikoskum.
Photo: Killer Karetsu
From "Karetsu - Background and Stuff"
Elements shown: LEGO
“To a surprising extent the war-lords in shining armor, the apostles of the martial virtues, tend not to die fighting when the time comes. History is full of ignominious getaways by the great and famous.”
- George Orwell

A trooper's job is to kill enemies, not to worry about coming home alive afterwards. A good leader knows that a budget surplus is always spent on more weapons and more men. A less-experienced general will sometimes show extremely poor priorities and buy protective gear for his existing troops instead.

It's even worse if the soldiers request this equipment themselves - it's a sign that they may be less than obsessively eager to throw away their lives meaninglessly for the entertainment of their Humans.

Cowards that request protective gear are likely to be among your least popular units, so go ahead and buy them some. The longer they stay alive, the more pissed off the rest of the troops will be, and that's a good state of mind for battle.

Shielded Targets
When damage strikes a minifig wearing Heavy Armor, or one who successfully parries with a Shield or Heavy Shield, he is considered to be Shielded against the blow. Shielding removes one die from each source of Damage, before the Damage is rolled.

For weapons with multiple die types, a Shielded target removes one of each type of die, except for d12s (MOC Combat: Fancy Dice). If a target is Shielded against a source of Damage that has no dice to remove, then the Shielding cancels 1d6 worth of that Damage.

By wearing Heavy Armor and successfully Parrying with a Shield at the same time, the most cowardly minifigs of all can receive the Shielded benefit twice, removing two of each type of dice from a source of incoming Damage.

Secondary Effects on Shielded Targets
Attacks may have a number of secondary effects, which will be introduced in later chapters. Whether or not a Shielded target is protected from these effects depends on whether they're based on the number of Damage dice, or on the results of the dice once they're rolled. It can help to handle secondary effects in the following order:
  • Before rolling for Damage, handle any effects based on the number of Damage dice. (KnockBack effects from large Weapons are the most common example (8.1: Weapon Size).)
  • Next, remove the Damage dice that are canceled by Shielding, and roll Damage.
  • Finally, handle any secondary effects that are based on the numbers rolled on each die. (Examples include checks for Grinding Damage and objects catching on Fire.)


Shields
Because Princess Wendy can't be armored up for official functions, she depends on a ring of heavily-armored handmaidens to absorb attacks against her royal person.
Weapons shown: Little Armory, LEGO, Red Bean Studios, Mega Bloks
Shields
Shield: Size:(S) Cost:1CP Use:2 Range:CC Effect:Armored Parry Notes:Parry or Shove only
Heavy Shield: Size:(M) Cost:1CP Use:3 Range:CC Effect:Armored Parry Notes:Parry or Shove only, can provide cover
A Shield is like a Hand Weapon devoted exclusively to Parrying (5.2: Close Combat), although they can sometimes also be handy for Shoving opponents into proper position for a follow-up attack.

A minifig can Parry a wider range of incoming attacks with a Shield than with other weapons. A Shield can Parry the same Close Combat Attacks and Counterattacks as any normal Close Combat Weapon, but it can also Parry Damage from Joust attacks and Crashes (H.3: Fighting From Horseback) as well as thrown weapons. A minifig who successfully Parries an attack with a Shield is Shielded against that attack.

Shields cannot be used to make Attacks or Counterattacks of their own, no matter how much you sharpen the edges.

Shields come in two sizes - regular Short-sized Shields, and Minifig-sized Heavy Shields. The Heavy Shield is slightly more difficult to use, with a Use of 3 rather than 2, but it has one big advantage: unlike a regular Shield, the Heavy Shield can be positioned as passive cover against all types of attacks, in addition to being used to Parry. It can provide cover either by itself, in conjunction with other cover elements on the field, or put together with the Heavy Shields of other units (5.1: Making Attacks). Like all cover, its effectiveness will depend on how well the Heavy Shield is positioned between the unit and the attacker, of course - if it's pointed in the wrong direction when the attack is made, it's too late to reposition it.


Body Armor
Armor
Sometimes Armor can become a troop in itself, if it's left lying around too long and becomes posessed by armor ghosts.
Armor shown: Red Bean Studios, LEGO, Little Armory
Body Armor: Cost:1CP Effect:Armor +2 Notes:-1" Move, can't swim
Heavy Armor: Cost:2CP Effect:Shielded Notes:Half Speed

“During the Middle Ages, probably one of the biggest mistakes was not putting on your armor because you were 'just going down to the corner.'”
- Jack Handey

For faint-hearted warriors who fear death but are still too lazy to lift a Shield in their own defense, Body Armor is a great way to prolong their worthless cowardly lives. As a bonus, Body Armor slows them down to the point that they can always "coincidentally" be the last to arrive at the front lines.

A minifig wearing Body Armor gets +2 to Armor against all incoming attacks (but not for internal Damage, like the effects of Poison or swallowing a grenade), but it reduces the minifig's Move by -1", and prevents swimming of any kind.

When a piece of Body Armor is combined with a visored helmet, it becomes Heavy Armor. A minifig wearing Heavy Armor is even better protected, but has an even harder time moving around. A minifig in Heavy Armor is Shielded against all incoming attacks, but he is forced to move at Half Speed (4.1: Movement ).

If a minifig wearing Body Armor or Heavy Armor falls in water, he must either use an Action to remove the armor or hope that someone can fish him out in a hurry. Otherwise, he will die of drowning at the end of his next turn. (Assuming he needs to breathe, that is - non-organic minifigs like androids and skeletons can continue wandering around happily underwater.)

Because of their poor mobility on foot, it's best to mount armored minifigs on the back of a Horse (Chapter H: The Horse), or to post them in narrow gates and walkways where they can't be easily outmaneuvered and bypassed.

When a minifig wearing Body Armor is Disrupted (4.3: Enemy Response), he recovers as normal, although the -1" Move penalty from the Body Armor makes the -2" Move cost to recover from Disruption a little more painful. When a minifig wearing Heavy Armor is Disrupted, on the other hand, it takes an Extended Action for him to get up again without help (4.2: Action), using up all of his Movement and Action for the turn. This can make Armored minfigs especially vulnerable to attacks that knock them over if they're not supported by other troops to pick them up or protect them while they're down.

Strategies for Fighting Shielded Minifigs
Minifigs in Heavy Armor can be intimidating to new players. Because their Shielding removes a die from incoming weapons' Damage, they can seem invulnerable against attacks from minifig weapons - most of which have only a single Damage die to begin with. Overcoming these defenses can take a little extra strategy.
  • Half Speed makes armored minifigs easy to outmaneuver or outrun. Their strong defenses mean nothing if you never have to fight them to begin with. Climb over an obstacle, and they likely can't follow. Drop them in a hole, and they're trapped. Dunk them in water, and they have a single turn to remove their armor or drown.
  • Many minifig weapons have Damage left over after dice are removed. The leftover +1s and +2s of Damage from Long-Ranged and Heavy Weapons aren't enough to kill an armored minifig by themselves, but they can add up quickly if used for Combined Damage. A Two-Handed Weapon does 2d6 all by itself, of course, leaving a second full d6 of Damage after the first is removed.
  • Even for weapons with only a single die of Damage, there are many ways to stack extra dice into the Damage total. Overskill Dice from lucky Skill rolls (4.2: Action) and Instant and Almighty Benny dice (MOC Combat: More Spirits of the Game) can all boost the Damage from an attack.
  • Charge Attacks are often the best technique against a Shielded opponent. The Momentum Dice can be used to add to the Damage of an attack, or to the KnockBack Inches from a Shove or Collision (5.4: Charge!) - especially useful, since armored minifigs can take a long time to recover from being Disrupted.



3.4: Desperate Measures
Twerking hard, or hardly twerking?
Despite the hypnotizing power of minifig butts, mooning the enemy has not been shown to have any practical effect.
Wiki entry: Yellow
“It is important when you haven't got any ammunition to have a butt on your rifle.”
- Winston Churchill

Nothing makes a warrior feel stupider than arriving at a battle and realizing he forgot to bring a weapon. He still has options, but mooning the enemy has been shown to have limited practical effect, and he's better off trying to scavenge a real weapon as quickly as possible.


Sheep in Flight
Unable to reach the enemy wizard in time to interrupt a deadly spell, Eric Joslin's giant starts hurling the projectiles closest at hand: a flock of sheep.
Photo: Eric Joslin
from "NELUG Gets Medieval"
Bare Hands
Size:- Cost:- Use:0* Range:CC Damage:Shove 2" or Grab Notes:* Automatic Hit
“Those who have not swords can still die upon them.”
- J.R.R. Tolkien

Minifigs lack the ability to clench their clawlike hands into fists, and the limited range of minifig leg motion means that the groins of their enemies will never be exposed to their nonexistent knees. As a result, unarmed combat between minifigs is an almost complete waste of time. The only really worthwhile use for Bare Hands is in grabbing someone else's dropped weapon.

Bare Hands cannot be used to Attack. If a minifig has one or both hands free, he can use it to Grab his opponent, hopefully for the sake of hitting him with a weapon in his other hand. If both hands are empty, then he can use both of them to Shove his opponent 2" away, in an attempt to get away from the real warriors who remembered to come armed. Although Bare Hands cannot be used to Parry Attacks, they can be used to Parry a Shove or Grab (5.2: Close Combat).


Minifig Tools
Size:- Cost:1CP Use:3 Range:CC Damage:1d6-1

“In the long history of humankind (and animal kind, too) those who learned to collaborate and improvise most effectively have prevailed.”
- Charles Darwin

The "official" purpose of a Minifig Tool is to help minifigs do their jobs. Medix need their first aid kits, Mechanix need their wrenches, and Clerix need their holy symbols. Fortunately for everyone, all of these things can also be used to beat people to death.

Any tool designed to be gripped and carried in a minifig's hand can be used as if it were a makeshift Hand Weapon with less effective stats. This includes not only the obvious striking implements like hammers, torches, and frying pans, but also suitcases, coffee mugs, megaphones, and teapots. Larger, Minifig-Sized Tools have the same stats but require two hands; these include rifle butts, shovels, metal detectors, pushbrooms, and oars.

Decapitated heads and skulls also count as Minifig Tools when used in combat - not because this makes any sense, but because beating opponents to death with their own friends' faces is awesome.


Random Objects
Size:- Cost:- Use:4 Range:CC Damage:1d6-2

“If a person offends you and you are in doubt as to whether it was intentional or not, do not resort to extreme measures. Simply watch your chance and hit him with a brick.”
- Mark Twain

Table legs, broken bottles, and even big rocks are all part of a cherished tradition of improvised weapons in the real world; in BrikWars, minifigs are just as likely to weild broken vehicle bits, a door, or an unsuspecting sheep. If a minifig can't find a real weapon, Random Objects are better than nothing, although that's only because having nothing sucks to such an impressive degree.

Any object that could conceivably be picked up and swung around by a minifig can be used as an improvised weapon. Some objects are obviously excluded: items like shortbows, flowers, and hats are too flimsy to do any damage, while objects larger than two minifigs in length are too big to pick up. The minifig must have an actual object he can hold in his hand; he can't for instance claim "there's a belt printed on my torso, I'm taking it off and whacking you with it."


Thrown Objects
Size:* Cost:* Use:* Range:3" Damage:* Notes: * use Close Combat stats

"Though boys throw stones at frogs in sport, the frogs do not die in sport, but in earnest."
- Plutarch

If an object can be used one-handed in Close Combat (whether as a regular weapon, Minifig Tool, or Random Object), it can also be thrown. A Thrown Object has exactly the same Use and Damage rating as if it were being used in Close Combat, but with a Range of 3" it can be hurled at targets out of immediate reach.

By throwing a weapon rather than running in swinging, minifigs can avoid entering Close Combat and risking Counterattacks. A Thrown Object can be Parried by a Shield or Heavy Shield (5.2: Close Combat), but not by other weapons (except in special cases - thrown Baseballs can often be Parried by a BaseballBatsMan, for instance).

Once they're thrown, Thrown Objects have a known drawback in that surviving opponents can then pick them up and use them against you. Grenades are a popular workaround for this issue.